Blackheads, much like cockroaches, are the worst for this very reason: Every time you squeeze one of them away, you find dozens more to tackle. (How's that for a fun visual?) As satisfying as that squeeze may be in the moment, the peskiness of blackheads can wear on anyone. They just keep coming back! In search of answers, we turned to top dermatologists to find out how to get rid of them — for good.
First things first, what exactly are blackheads?
Before you go about trying to rid your skin of blackheads, it helps first to understand what they actually are. Blackheads are just an oxidised mix of oil and dead skin cells that are sitting in pores, and the exposure to air is what causes them to oxidise and turn black.
The technical name for a blackhead is an open comedone (and comedone is the scientific term for an acne lesion). There are two different types of comedones: Open (blackheads) and closed (whiteheads). Blackheads are characterised by a dilated opening of a hair follicle, caused by the build-up of sebum, which is oil, P. Acnes bacteria, the primary bacteria responsible for causing acne, and inflammation.
When it comes to getting rid of blackheads, or any type of acne for that matter, there are two ways you can go: You can DIY at home, or, for more severe or persistent cases of acne, you can see a dermatologist. The best plan of action for you will depend on a lot of different factors, of course, but here are the best over-the-counter and prescription treatments to look out for, per top dermatologists.
1. Cleanse with salicylic acid
Instead of benzoyl peroxide, look for over-the-counter (OTC) products that contain salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is the preferred ingredient for treating blackheads because it breaks down the materials that clog pores.
The best way to utilise salicylic acid? Try a gentle face scrub, which acts as a sort of one-two punch for combatting blackheads, providing double the exfoliation powers. The combination of physical exfoliation from the scrub, along with chemical exfoliation from the salicylic acid, can help keep the pores clear.
However, you won't want to exfoliate with a scrub every day. The general rule of thumb is three times per week for oily or combination skin, and just once weekly for sensitive skin. On the days you don't use a scrub, swap in a gentle salicylic acid-containing cleanser.
2. For more stubborn blackheads, go with a retinoid cream
Retinoids may be useful for stubborn cases of acne by helping to unclog pores. This process can also make other OTC products more effective by allowing them to be better able to enter the follicle.
Retinoids can help treat blackheads and clogged pores by reducing the stickiness of the cells that clog pores, as well as speeding up the rate at which the skin turns over and regenerates. While there are many retinol myths out there, the underlying truth about the ingredient is that the right percentage and regimen can totally transform your skin — and that includes helping to keep blackheads at bay.
3. Use a clay mask
Clay masks help to draw oils and toxins out of the skin, which helps to unclog pores. Clay masks are often considered must-haves for oily skin. Some clay masks also contain sulfur. Sulfur is another ingredient that works to break down the dead skin cells that make up blackheads.
No matter which mask you choose, you can use it once a week in addition to your once- or twice-weekly exfoliating treatment.
4. Consider a chemical peel
Chemical peels are traditionally used for anti-ageing benefits, such as reduced age spots and fine lines. The peels often contain AHAs or BHAs, and they work by exfoliating the skin.
In theory, smoother, refreshed-looking skin should be revealed after going through the process.
Though they’re not considered a primary treatment for blackheads, chemical peels can possibly remove dead skin cells and shrink enlarged pores. This treatment method may be beneficial if you’re looking for anti-ageing benefits too.